
Loppers max out around 2 inches. After that, you need a saw. Pruning saws are designed to cut on the pull stroke, which gives you more control than a regular carpenter’s saw. The teeth are aggressive and designed for green wood.
I have used pruning saws for everything from removing a 6-inch maple limb to cutting back overgrown shrubs. Here are the 5 best pruning saws I have tested, from folding pocket saws to fixed-blade workhorses.
Quick Comparison
| Rank | Saw | Blade Length | Type | Price |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Corona RazorTooth 10″ | 10 inches | Folding | ~$22 |
| 2 | Silky Gomboy 240 | 9.5 inches | Folding | ~$45 |
| 3 | Fiskars PowerTooth 15″ | 15 inches | Fixed | ~$25 |
| 4 | ARS 7-Inch TurboCut | 7 inches | Folding | ~$30 |
| 5 | Silky Zubat 330 | 13 inches | Fixed (curved) | ~$55 |
1. Corona RazorTooth 10-Inch Folding Saw – Best Overall

The Corona RazorTooth is the best value in pruning saws. For about $22, you get a 10-inch blade with impulse-hardened teeth that stay sharp through heavy use. The teeth have 3 cutting angles per tooth instead of the standard 1, which makes it cut faster on both push and pull strokes.
The blade locks open securely and folds into the handle for safe storage. The handle is comfortable with a rubber overmold grip. At 10 inches, the blade handles branches up to about 6 inches thick. That covers almost everything a homeowner needs to cut.
What I like: Amazing value. The triple-ground teeth cut fast. Impulse-hardened teeth stay sharp. The folding mechanism locks securely. Comfortable handle. Replaceable blade – you can buy a new blade instead of a whole new saw.
What I don’t: The blade is slightly flexible, which can make starting a cut tricky on very hard wood. The locking mechanism occasionally gets sticky with sap. The blade does not have a sheath – rely on the folding mechanism for storage.
Best for: The one saw every homeowner should own.
2. Silky Gomboy 240 – Best Professional Folding Saw

Silky is the gold standard for pruning saws. Japanese-made with precision-ground teeth that cut like a hot knife through butter. The Gomboy 240 has a 9.5-inch blade with large teeth (7.5 teeth per inch) for aggressive cutting. If you cut thick branches regularly, this saw is noticeably faster than the Corona.
The blade is thicker and stiffer than most folding saws. It does not flex when starting a cut. The rubber handle is comfortable for extended use. The locking mechanism is the smoothest I have used – it clicks open and closed with precision.
What I like: Fastest-cutting folding saw I have tested. Stiff blade does not flex. Excellent build quality. Japanese steel holds an edge. Smooth locking mechanism. Available in multiple sizes (210mm, 240mm, 270mm, 300mm).
What I don’t: Expensive at around $45. Replacement blades cost almost as much as a new Corona saw. The teeth are not impulse-hardened (they can be sharpened but require skill).
Best for: Professionals and serious gardeners who cut thick branches regularly.
3. Fiskars PowerTooth 15-Inch Fixed Saw – Best Large Saw

When you have a really thick branch – 6 inches or more – a 10-inch folding saw can feel small. The Fiskars PowerTooth has a 15-inch blade that makes quick work of thick limbs. The PowerTooth design has teeth that cut on both push and pull strokes. The curved blade helps maintain contact with the branch throughout the cut.
This is a fixed-blade saw with a D-handle grip. It is larger than a folding saw but more efficient for big jobs. The blade has a hard chrome finish that resists rust and sap buildup.
What I like: 15-inch blade handles thick branches fast. Both push and pull cutting action. Chrome finish resists sap and rust. D-handle gives you good control. Affordable for the size.
What I don’t: Not portable – the fixed blade needs a sheath for safe storage (sheath is included but basic). Overkill for branches under 3 inches. The handle is not as ergonomic as premium saws.
Best for: Cutting thick branches (4+ inches) and storm cleanup.
4. ARS 7-Inch TurboCut Folding Saw – Best Compact

Not every pruning job needs a giant saw. The ARS TurboCut has a 7-inch blade that fits in your back pocket. It is perfect for light pruning, camping, and keeping in the garden tool bag for quick cuts. Despite the small size, the Japanese steel cuts fast.
The blade has impulse-hardened teeth, so they stay sharp. The folding mechanism locks in both the open and closed positions. The handle has a lanyard hole for hanging. At about 7 ounces, you barely notice it in your pocket.
What I like: Very compact and portable. Cuts well for its size. Impulse-hardened teeth. Lightweight. Good for quick cuts on branches up to 3 inches. The locking mechanism feels secure.
What I don’t: Too small for branches over 3 to 4 inches. Your hand gets closer to the branch while cutting. Not ideal as your only saw unless you only cut small branches.
Best for: A second saw for quick jobs or a primary saw for small gardens.
5. Silky Zubat 330 – Best Curved-Blade Professional Saw

The Zubat is what arborists carry when they climb trees for a living. The 13-inch curved blade makes cutting overhead branches much easier than a straight blade. The curve keeps the blade in contact with the branch throughout the stroke. The teeth are precision-ground in Japan and cut aggressively.
This is a fixed-blade saw with a scabbard that clips to a belt. It is designed for heavy daily use. The handle is molded rubber that stays grippy even when wet. If you have a lot of trees to maintain, this saw will save you time and effort.
What I like: Curved blade excels at overhead cutting. Extremely fast cutting. Professional-grade build quality. Comfortable grip. The scabbard is well-designed for belt carry. Replaceable blade.
What I don’t: Expensive. The scabbard is bulky if you do not wear a tool belt. Overkill for occasional use. The teeth are aggressive enough to be dangerous if handled carelessly.
Best for: Professional arborists and property owners with many trees to maintain.
Folding vs Fixed-Blade Pruning Saws
Folding saws are portable and safe. The blade folds into the handle like a pocket knife. You can carry them in a pocket, tool bag, or glove box. The blade is protected when not in use. Folding saws are perfect for most home gardeners. Blade lengths typically run 7 to 10 inches.
Fixed-blade saws are more efficient for heavy work. The longer blade (12 to 15 inches) cuts faster. The rigid handle-to-blade connection transfers more power. But fixed-blade saws need a sheath for safe storage and are bulkier to carry. They are better for people who do a lot of pruning or need to cut branches over 4 inches regularly.
I keep a folding saw in my garden tool bag for everyday use. I bring out the fixed-blade saw when I have a specific big branch to cut or I am doing storm cleanup.
How to Use a Pruning Saw
Pruning saws cut on the pull stroke. Do not push hard – let the saw do the work. Start with light, short strokes to create a groove. Once the groove is established, use long, smooth strokes using the full length of the blade. Keep the blade straight – bending or twisting a pruning saw blade can snap it.
For branches thicker than 2 inches, use the 3-cut method: undercut first (to prevent bark tearing), top cut second (to remove the branch), final cut third (to trim the stub at the branch collar). This is the same technique I described in my tree pruning guide.
My Top Recommendation
For 95% of home gardeners, the Corona RazorTooth 10-inch folding saw ($22) is the perfect choice. It cuts fast. It folds safely. It costs less than dinner for two. The replaceable blade means you can refresh it for about $12 when it eventually dulls after years of use.
If you want the best, buy the Silky Gomboy 240 ($45). The Japanese steel and precision grinding are on another level. You will notice the speed difference on every cut.
If you have large trees and cut thick branches regularly, add the Fiskars PowerTooth 15-inch fixed saw ($25) to your toolkit. The long blade makes 6-inch branches manageable.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use a regular wood saw for pruning?
You can, but it will be slower and harder to control. Carpenter saws are designed to cut dry, seasoned wood on the push stroke. Pruning saws cut green, wet wood on the pull stroke. The tooth geometry is different. A proper pruning saw is worth the small investment.
How long does a pruning saw blade last?
With impulse-hardened teeth (like the Corona RazorTooth), the blade stays sharp for several years of homeowner use. When it dulls, replace the blade. Professional saws with non-hardened teeth (like Silky) can be sharpened but most people replace the blade every 1 to 2 years of heavy use.
Why do pruning saws cut on the pull stroke?
Pulling gives you more control, especially when cutting overhead branches. Pushing a saw above your head is awkward and dangerous. The pull stroke also keeps the blade under tension, which prevents it from bending or buckling in the cut.
Can I use a pruning saw on roots?
Yes, but be aware that dirt and rocks in the soil will dull the teeth very quickly. If you need to cut a root, dig around it first so you are cutting clean wood, not wood encrusted with dirt. A dedicated root saw or mattock is a better tool for frequent root cutting.
What size pruning saw do I need?
For general home use, a 10-inch folding saw handles 90% of cuts. If most of your branches are under 3 inches, a 7-inch compact saw works fine. If you regularly cut branches 4 inches and thicker, a 13 to 15-inch fixed-blade saw is the better choice.


