Choosing the right saw chain for your electric chainsaw when trimming trees can feel a bit tricky, especially if you’re new to it. You want to make sure you have something that cuts well and is safe to use. Many people wonder, What chain type works best on a electric chainsaw for tree trimming?.
Don’t worry, it’s simpler than it sounds! We’ll walk through it step-by-step so you can pick the perfect chain. First, let’s look at the main things you need to know.
Key Takeaways
- Different saw chains are designed for different cutting tasks and wood types.
- Understanding chain pitch, gauge, and the number of drive links is essential.
- For general tree trimming with an electric chainsaw, a general-purpose chain is usually the best choice.
- Sharpening and maintenance are as important as choosing the right chain.
- Matching the chain to your specific chainsaw model ensures optimal performance and safety.
Understanding Saw Chain Basics
Saw chains are the sharp, toothed loops that do the actual cutting on a chainsaw. They’re made of many small metal pieces linked together. Each link has a specific job, like cutting through wood or guiding the chain.
For trimming trees, you need a chain that cuts smoothly and efficiently, making the job easier and safer. Knowing the parts of a chain helps you pick the right one.
Chain Pitch: The Spacing Between Teeth
The pitch of a saw chain is one of the most important measurements. It tells you how far apart the drive links and cutters are. Think of it like the size of the steps on a ladder.
A smaller pitch means the teeth are closer together, and a larger pitch means they are further apart.
This spacing affects how fast the chain cuts and how smoothly it operates. For most electric chainsaws used for general tree trimming, you’ll find common pitches like 3/8 inch or .325 inch. A smaller pitch can lead to a smoother cut, which is good for cleaner work.
A larger pitch might cut faster but can create more vibration.
It’s super important to match the chain’s pitch to your chainsaw’s drive sprocket. The drive sprocket is the gear at the end of the chainsaw’s bar that turns the chain. If the pitch doesn’t match, the chain won’t work properly and could even be dangerous.
Your chainsaw manual will tell you the correct pitch it needs.
Chain Gauge: The Thickness of the Drive Link
The gauge of a saw chain refers to the thickness of the drive links. Drive links are the parts of the chain that fit into the groove on the guide bar and are driven by the engine’s sprocket. They are like the “feet” of the chain, guiding it along the bar.
The gauge is usually measured in millimeters or inches. Common gauges are 0.050 inches (1.3mm), 0.058 inches (1.5mm), and 0.063 inches (1.6mm). A thinner gauge chain fits into a narrower groove on the guide bar.
This can sometimes reduce drag and allow the chainsaw to cut a bit faster, especially on smaller saws.
A thicker gauge chain is generally stronger and more durable. It’s often found on larger, more powerful chainsaws designed for heavy-duty work like felling large trees. For typical tree trimming with an electric chainsaw, a standard gauge like 0.050 or 0.058 inches is usually perfect.
Again, the gauge must match the groove on your guide bar. Using the wrong gauge can cause the chain to bind or even fall off the bar.
Number of Drive Links: How Long is the Chain?
The number of drive links is simply how many of those drive link pieces are on the chain loop. This number determines the overall length of the chain and, therefore, the length of the guide bar your chainsaw can use. Chains are made to fit specific guide bar lengths.
For example, a chain might have 52 drive links, while another might have 60. This tells you that the 52-link chain is designed for a shorter guide bar than the 60-link chain. You can’t just put a longer chain on a shorter bar or vice-versa; it won’t fit correctly.
Your chainsaw is designed for a specific guide bar length, and that guide bar requires a chain with a specific number of drive links. Always check your chainsaw’s specifications or the guide bar itself for this information. Getting the number of drive links right is crucial for the chain to tension properly on the bar.
A chain that’s too long won’t tension, and one that’s too short won’t go around the bar.
Choosing the Right Chain for Electric Chainsaw Tree Trimming
So, when it comes to trimming branches and smaller trees, What chain type works best on a electric chainsaw for tree trimming? The best answer for most people is a general-purpose saw chain. These are designed to be versatile and work well in a variety of wood types and cutting conditions. They offer a good balance of cutting speed, smoothness, and durability.
General-purpose chains typically have a moderate pitch and gauge, making them suitable for the typical loads an electric chainsaw encounters. They are also often designed with a certain level of “kickback reduction” built in, which is a safety feature. Kickback happens when the nose of the guide bar snags something, causing the saw to violently jump upwards.
For electric chainsaws, which are often used for lighter tasks like pruning branches, clearing brush, and cutting up smaller fallen trees, a chain with reduced kickback potential is highly recommended. These chains usually have features like guard links or low-profile cutters that help prevent the chain from snagging as easily.
General Purpose Chains: Your Go-To Option
A general-purpose saw chain is the workhorse for many chainsaw users. It’s engineered to handle a wide range of cutting jobs effectively. This means it can cut through both softwoods like pine and hardwoods like oak without significant issues.
The design aims for a good compromise between cutting speed and the finish of the cut.
When you’re out in the yard, trimming branches off a maple tree or clearing some brush after a storm, this is the chain you’ll want. It won’t necessarily be the fastest at cutting through a massive log, but for most electric chainsaw tasks, its performance is more than adequate.
These chains often feature standard cutter shapes. The cutters are the sharp teeth that bite into the wood. Their design is balanced to provide aggressive enough cutting without being so aggressive that they become difficult to control or overly prone to snagging.
For someone just starting, this predictability is a big plus.
Kickback Reduction Features: Safety First
Safety is paramount when using any chainsaw, and electric models are no exception. One of the most significant safety concerns is kickback. This is a sudden, powerful upward and backward movement of the chainsaw.
It can happen if the tip of the guide bar hits an object, like a branch, or if the chain is pinched in the cut.
Chains designed with kickback reduction features are built to lessen the severity of this dangerous reaction. They often incorporate:
- Guard Links: These are small metal pieces located in front of the cutter teeth. They help to lift the chain slightly as it approaches a surface, reducing the chance of the cutter snagging deeply.
- Low-Profile Cutters: These cutters have a lower cutting angle, making them less likely to dig in aggressively and cause a kickback. They are common on chains for electric chainsaws and smaller gas-powered saws.
- Bumpers: Some chains have a bumper link integrated into the design that helps to control the depth of cut, further minimizing the risk of snagging.
For beginners, choosing a chain with these features is a smart move. It provides an extra layer of safety, giving you more confidence as you learn to operate the saw. Manufacturers often label these chains as “low-kickback” or “reduced kickback.” Always look for this indication when purchasing.
Chain Speed and Power Matching
Electric chainsaws have a motor that powers the chain. The power of the motor, combined with the chain’s design, determines how fast the chainsaw can cut. A more powerful motor can spin a chain faster and push it through wood more easily.
General-purpose chains are designed to work well with the typical power output of most electric chainsaws. They don’t demand excessive power, so they won’t bog down the motor too quickly. This means you get a good cutting experience without straining the saw.
If you have a very small, lightweight electric chainsaw, you might even opt for a chain with fewer teeth or a slightly narrower gauge. These can reduce the load on the motor. Conversely, if you have a more powerful, professional-grade electric chainsaw, you could potentially use a slightly more aggressive chain, but for most home users, a general-purpose, low-kickback chain is ideal.
When to Consider Specialized Chains
While general-purpose chains are great for most jobs, there are times when a specialized chain might be beneficial. These are typically for very specific tasks or wood conditions that general chains might not handle as well. However, for basic tree trimming with an electric chainsaw, they are often not necessary.
If you find yourself frequently cutting very hard, dense wood, or very soft, punky wood, there are chains designed to perform better in those specific situations. But for the average homeowner trimming branches, sticking with a versatile chain will serve you best. It’s important to know these options exist, but don’t feel you need them for standard tasks.
Hardwood vs. Softwood Chains
Wood is not all the same. Hardwoods, like oak and maple, are dense and tough. Softwoods, like pine and spruce, are lighter and easier to cut.
Some specialized chains are designed to cut hardwoods more efficiently. These might have slightly different cutter shapes or angles that allow them to bite into dense wood with less effort. They can sometimes leave a smoother finish on hardwoods.
On the other hand, chains for softwoods might be designed for speed, cutting through the less resistant material very quickly. However, for most tree trimming, the difference isn’t huge, and a good general-purpose chain will handle both adequately. The key is keeping your chain sharp.
Chains for Specific Cutting Styles
There are also chains designed for specific cutting styles. For instance, some chains are made for carving, where the tip of the bar is used to make detailed cuts. These chains often have very small cutters and a narrow pitch to allow for precision.
There are also chains meant for ripping, which is cutting along the grain of the wood, like when making lumber. These chains have a different tooth angle to make long, straight cuts. Tree trimming, however, is usually cross-cutting, meaning cutting across the grain of the branches.
For trimming branches, you are typically making cross-cuts. Therefore, a standard chain designed for general use is the most appropriate. You don’t need the specialized angles of a ripping or carving chain for this kind of work.
Maintaining Your Saw Chain
No matter which chain type you choose, proper maintenance is key to its performance and longevity. A dull chain is dangerous and inefficient. It requires more force to cut, leading to fatigue and a higher risk of kickback.
Regular sharpening and cleaning will make your chainsaw work like new.
This is true for all types of chains, but especially for the general-purpose chains that are most common for electric chainsaws. Think of it like keeping your kitchen knives sharp; it makes cooking so much easier and safer.
Sharpening Your Chain
Sharpening a saw chain involves restoring the sharpness of the cutter teeth. This is typically done with a round file of a specific size, guided by a sharpening guide or jig. The angle of the file against the tooth is critical to achieve the correct sharpness.
The ideal sharpening angle for most general-purpose chains is around 25-30 degrees. You’ll want to file each cutter tooth the same number of strokes, ensuring they are all sharpened equally. A sharp chain will produce fine sawdust, while a dull chain produces coarse wood chips.
Many users find it easiest to send their chains to a professional sharpening service if they are not comfortable doing it themselves. However, learning to sharpen your own chain can save time and money in the long run. There are many helpful videos and guides online that demonstrate the proper technique.
A good rule of thumb is to sharpen your chain when you notice it starting to cut slower, or when you see fine sawdust instead of wood chips. For a 16-inch bar on an electric chainsaw, you might need to sharpen it every 15-30 minutes of cutting time, depending on how much dirt and debris you encounter.
Lubrication: Keeping Things Smooth
Chainsaws require proper lubrication to keep the chain and bar working smoothly and to prevent overheating. This is done with bar and chain oil, which is stored in a separate reservoir on the chainsaw and pumped out as the chain moves.
The oil serves several important purposes:
- Reduces Friction: It creates a thin film between the chain and the guide bar, as well as between the cutters and the wood. This greatly reduces friction, allowing the chain to move freely and cut efficiently.
- Cools the Chain and Bar: The constant movement of the chain generates heat. The oil helps to dissipate this heat, preventing premature wear and potential damage to the chain and bar.
- Prevents Rust: Bar and chain oil often contains anti-rust additives that protect the metal components from corrosion, especially if the saw is stored for a while.
Make sure you always use bar and chain oil, not motor oil or other types of lubricants. Bar and chain oil is formulated to stick to the chain and bar even at high speeds. You can check if your chainsaw is lubricating properly by holding the tip of the bar near a light-colored surface while the saw is running; you should see a fine spray of oil.
Cleaning and Inspection
After each use, it’s a good idea to clean your saw chain and guide bar. Remove any sawdust, wood chips, and sap that may have accumulated. This is important because debris can clog the oiling system and cause the chain to wear down faster.
Inspect the chain for any signs of damage, such as bent or broken teeth, stretched links, or cracks. Also, check the guide bar for wear. A worn bar can have a groove that is too wide, or the edges might become rounded.
If the bar is damaged, it should be replaced to ensure safe operation and proper chain fit.
A quick visual inspection can catch small problems before they become big ones. For example, if you notice a few teeth are chipped, you might be able to file them down and continue using the chain for a while. But if several teeth are significantly damaged, it’s best to replace the chain.
Putting It All Together: Your Best Chain Choice
So, when you ask, What chain type works best on a electric chainsaw for tree trimming?, the answer is usually a general-purpose, low-kickback chain. These chains offer the right balance of cutting performance, safety, and ease of use for most home trimming tasks. They are designed to be versatile enough for various types of wood you’ll encounter in your yard.
Always remember to check your chainsaw’s manual for the specific pitch, gauge, and number of drive links it requires. Using the wrong size chain can damage your saw and create a dangerous situation. Once you have the correct size, a general-purpose chain with kickback reduction features will make your tree trimming jobs much smoother and safer.
Matching Chain to Your Chainsaw Model
Every electric chainsaw is designed with specific dimensions for its guide bar and chain. This isn’t arbitrary; it’s engineered for optimal performance and safety for that particular model. For instance, a small electric chainsaw designed for light pruning will have a different bar and chain setup than a larger, more powerful electric saw meant for cutting thicker branches.
The pitch and gauge are particularly important here. A chainsaw designed for a 3/8 inch pitch will have a drive sprocket that matches that pitch. If you try to install a chain with a different pitch, it simply won’t engage properly with the sprocket, and the chain may not even fit around the bar.
The same applies to the gauge; the groove in the guide bar must be exactly the width of the drive links on your chain.
The number of drive links is also crucial. It dictates the length of the guide bar. Your chainsaw’s tensioning system is designed to take up slack in a chain of a specific length.
A chain that’s too long won’t tension correctly, leaving it loose and prone to derailing. A chain that’s too short might not fit around the bar at all, or it could over-tension, causing excessive wear and potential damage.
Real-World Example: Pruning a Maple Tree
Let’s say you have a maple tree in your backyard, and some of the lower branches are getting too long. You decide to use your electric chainsaw to trim them back. The branches are about 3-4 inches thick.
You’ve got a 16-inch guide bar on your electric chainsaw.
For this task, a general-purpose chain with a 3/8 inch pitch, 0.050 inch gauge, and 56 drive links (a common size for a 16-inch bar) would be perfect. You’d want a low-kickback version for safety. As you cut through the branches, you’ll notice the chain slices through the wood smoothly.
The sawdust will be fine, and you won’t have to force the saw. You might need to sharpen the chain after cutting about 15-20 branches, depending on how much dirt or small twigs are present.
Another Scenario: Clearing Fallen Debris
Imagine a recent storm has left a few fallen branches on your property, some up to 6 inches in diameter. You have a slightly more robust electric chainsaw with an 18-inch bar. Again, you’d look for a general-purpose chain, likely with a similar pitch and gauge as before, but with more drive links to match the longer bar (perhaps 62 drive links for an 18-inch bar).
With a sharp, low-kickback chain, your electric chainsaw should handle these branches quite well. You’ll be making cross-cuts, and the general-purpose chain is designed for this. You might feel the saw working a bit harder than on the smaller maple branches, but it should still cut efficiently.
Remember to keep checking the chain’s lubrication and be aware of any embedded dirt or stones in the wood, which can quickly dull the chain.
Frequently Asked Questions
Question: What is pitch and gauge in a chainsaw chain?
Answer: Pitch refers to the spacing between the drive links and cutters on the chain, usually measured in inches (e.g., 3/8 inch). Gauge refers to the thickness of the drive links, also measured in inches or millimeters (e.g., 0.050 inches or 1.3mm). Both must match your chainsaw’s guide bar and drive sprocket.
Question: How do I know what chain size my electric chainsaw needs?
Answer: Check your chainsaw’s owner’s manual. It will clearly state the required chain pitch, gauge, and the number of drive links for your specific model. You can often also find this information printed on the guide bar itself.
Question: Can I use a chain with a different pitch than what my saw recommends?
Answer: No, you should never use a chain with a different pitch. The drive sprocket on your chainsaw is designed for a specific pitch, and an incorrect pitch will not engage properly, leading to poor performance, damage, or a dangerous situation.
Question: How often should I sharpen my chainsaw chain?
Answer: You should sharpen your chain whenever you notice it cutting slower than usual, producing fine dust instead of wood chips, or if you have to force the saw through the wood. For general tree trimming, this might be every 15-30 minutes of actual cutting time, but it depends on the wood and if you hit any dirt.
Question: What does “low-kickback” mean for a chainsaw chain?
Answer: A low-kickback chain has built-in safety features, like guard links or specific cutter designs, that help to reduce the severity of kickback. Kickback is a sudden, violent upward and backward movement of the saw that can happen if the tip of the bar snags. Low-kickback chains are recommended for most users, especially beginners.
Summary
For trimming trees with your electric chainsaw, a general-purpose, low-kickback chain is your best bet. Always match the chain’s pitch, gauge, and drive link count to your chainsaw’s specifications. Keep your chain sharp and well-oiled for safe and efficient cutting.
This simple approach will help you get the job done right.
