Cutting up fallen trees can seem like a big job, especially if you’re new to using a chainsaw. It might even feel a little scary. You might wonder, How do professionals approach cutting fallen trees using a chainsaw? They make it look easy, but there’s a method to their madness.
Don’t worry, though! We’ll walk you through it step by step, making it simple to understand. First, let’s look at what you’ll learn.
Key Takeaways
- You’ll learn the essential safety rules before you even touch a chainsaw to a fallen tree.
- We’ll show you how to check the tree for tension and how it’s resting.
- You’ll discover the best ways to make cuts to avoid getting your chainsaw stuck.
- We’ll explain different cutting techniques for various tree situations.
- You’ll get tips on how to handle the cut pieces safely after they’re down.
- We’ll cover how to maintain your chainsaw so it’s ready for the job.
Safety First: Before You Cut
Before you think about making any cuts, safety is the most important thing. Working with a chainsaw, especially on a fallen tree, has its risks. Professionals always start by assessing the situation thoroughly.
This means looking at the area around the tree, making sure no people or animals are nearby. They also check their own gear. Wearing the right protective equipment is non-negotiable.
This includes a hard hat, eye protection like safety glasses or a face shield, hearing protection, sturdy gloves, and chainsaw chaps or cut-resistant pants. A fallen tree can be unstable, so understanding its environment is key to avoiding accidents.
Protective Gear Essentials
Professional loggers and arborists understand that their gear is their first line of defense. Each piece of personal protective equipment (PPE) serves a vital role in preventing injuries. Chainsaw chaps, for instance, are made with special layers of fabric that can stop a moving chain.
They might look bulky, but they are designed to protect your legs from serious cuts. The hard hat protects your head from falling branches or debris. Safety glasses or a face shield are crucial to prevent sawdust, wood chips, or even broken chain pieces from entering your eyes.
Hearing protection is vital because chainsaw engines are loud and can cause permanent hearing damage over time. Gloves improve your grip on the saw and protect your hands.
Assessing the Fallen Tree
When a tree falls, it doesn’t always land in a simple, relaxed way. It can get caught on other trees, rocks, or uneven ground. This creates tension and compression in the wood.
Professionals spend time figuring out where these forces are strongest. This is called assessing the tree’s “stress” or “tension.” They look at how the tree is resting and if any branches are pushing against other objects. Understanding these forces helps them decide where to make their cuts so the wood doesn’t pinch the chainsaw or spring back unexpectedly.
It’s like looking at a puzzle before you start putting pieces together.
- Personal Protective Equipment (PPE): Always wear a helmet, eye protection, hearing protection, sturdy gloves, and cut-resistant pants or chaps. This gear is designed to protect you from serious harm.
- Work Area Safety: Clear the area around the fallen tree. Make sure no people or pets are nearby. Keep a clear escape route for yourself.
- Chainsaw Check: Before starting, ensure your chainsaw is in good working order. Check the chain tension, oil level, and ensure the chain brake is functioning correctly.
- Environmental Assessment: Look for overhead hazards like loose branches or power lines. Also, note the terrain and any obstacles around the tree that could affect your cutting.
Understanding Tension and Compression
Fallen trees are not like a fresh log on a cutting bench; they are under stress from gravity and how they landed. This stress can be in two main forms: tension and compression. Tension is when the wood fibers are being pulled apart, often on the top side of a bent section of the tree.
Compression is when the wood fibers are being squeezed together, usually on the bottom side of a bent section. Knowing where these areas are is critical for making safe and effective cuts. If you cut into a highly compressed area first, the wood might slam shut, trapping your saw.
Conversely, if you cut into a tensioned area incorrectly, it might spring apart unexpectedly.
Identifying Tension Areas
Tension in a fallen tree typically occurs on the side that is being lifted or stretched. Imagine a tree that has fallen and is now resting on a large rock, with its trunk curving upwards over the rock. The top side of that curve, where the wood is being pulled, is under tension.
Professionals look for this upward bend and identify the outer edge of the curve as a likely tension zone. Sawdust might even be visible if the tension is high enough to cause small cracks. Cutting into this area without proper support or technique can cause the wood to split apart suddenly, potentially kicking the chainsaw back at the operator.
Recognizing Compression Zones
Compression zones are usually found on the underside of a fallen tree where it is being squeezed. In our example of the tree resting on a rock, the bottom side of the trunk, where it’s being pressed against the rock, is the compression zone. Here, the wood fibers are packed tightly together.
If you try to cut through a compressed section directly, the wood can close in on the saw blade, pinching it tightly. This can damage the saw and make it difficult to remove. Professionals identify these areas by observing how the tree is supported and where the weight is concentrated.
Case Study: The Snapping Branch
A homeowner decided to cut a large oak branch that had fallen across their yard. The branch was resting on the ground at one end and supported by a smaller bush at the other, creating a significant upward curve. Not understanding tension, they started cutting from the unsupported middle, aiming for the top of the branch.
As they cut deeper, the wood on the underside, which was under compression, began to squeeze. Suddenly, the unsupported end of the branch snapped upwards with tremendous force, throwing the chainsaw and nearly striking the homeowner. They were lucky to avoid serious injury.
This highlights the danger of not identifying tension and compression.
- Tension: Wood fibers are being pulled apart, usually on the upper side of a bend or where the log is lifted.
- Compression: Wood fibers are being squeezed together, typically on the lower side of a bend or where the log is resting.
- Importance: Knowing tension and compression helps prevent the chainsaw from getting stuck and avoids unexpected wood movement.
- Observation is Key: Spend time observing how the tree is resting and where the stress points are before making any cuts.
Essential Chainsaw Cutting Techniques
Once safety is assured and the tree’s stress points are understood, professionals employ specific cutting techniques. The goal is to cut the log in sections efficiently and safely. This usually involves making several cuts rather than one deep one, especially for larger logs or those with significant tension.
They often start with a small “pilot cut” or “notch” to relieve pressure or guide the wood. The order of the cuts is crucial. A common strategy is to cut from the side with tension first, but only partially, then finish from the compressed side.
The Underbuck and Overbuck Method
This is a fundamental technique for dealing with logs that have pressure. For a log that is supported at both ends and sagging in the middle, the professional will make an initial cut on the bottom (underbuck). This cut goes about one-third of the way through the log.
Then, they make a second cut from the top (overbuck), meeting the first cut. This second cut is done carefully to avoid pinching the saw. If the log has tension on the top and compression on the bottom, the technique is reversed.
This method ensures the wood doesn’t bind the saw.
For instance, if a log is supported at two points and creating a downward curve, it has compression on the bottom and tension on the top. A professional would start by making a shallow cut from the top, about a third of the way into the log. This is the overbuck cut, and it helps relieve some of the upward tension.
Then, they would proceed to cut from the bottom, completing the cut. This prevents the saw from getting stuck when the wood closes in.
Cutting Through Tension
Cutting through a tensioned area requires care. If a log is bent upwards, the top surface is under tension. A professional might start by making a shallow cut from the top side.
This is called a relief cut. This cut doesn’t go all the way through but helps to prevent the wood from splitting further or twisting. They might then proceed to make a deeper cut from the bottom, carefully watching for any signs of the saw being gripped.
Sometimes, a wedge is used to keep the cut open as they work.
Dealing with Compression
Compression zones are where the wood is being squeezed. Cutting into a compressed log can cause the saw to bind. Professionals will often make their first cut on the tensioned side, then use a second cut from the compressed side.
If the log is heavily compressed, they might make a partial cut from the bottom, then insert a wedge into the cut to hold it open. They then complete the cut from the top. This ensures the wood doesn’t close in on the blade.
Real-Life Example: The Log with a Bow
Imagine a long fallen log that’s resting on the ground at both ends, creating a noticeable upward bow. This means the top of the log is in tension, and the bottom is in compression. A beginner might try to cut straight down from the top.
This would likely cause the saw to bind as the two ends of the log press together. A professional, however, would first make a shallow cut from the top, going in about 30% of the log’s diameter. Then, they would carefully start cutting from the bottom, and as the saw begins to cut through, they might insert a plastic or wooden wedge to keep the cut open.
This prevents the log from squeezing the saw.
- Pilot Cuts: Small, partial cuts made to relieve stress or guide the main cut.
- Underbuck/Overbuck: Cutting from the bottom or top of the log, often used in combination.
- Relief Cuts: Shallow cuts made to reduce tension and prevent splitting.
- Wedge Usage: Inserting wedges into cuts to keep the wood from binding the chainsaw.
Step-by-Step Cutting Process
Professionals follow a structured process to ensure every cut is made safely and effectively. This process helps minimize risks and makes the job go smoothly. It starts with planning and ends with safely moving the cut sections.
Even experienced professionals stick to these steps every time they approach a fallen tree.
1. Plan Your Cuts
Before touching the chainsaw, take time to survey the entire log. Decide how you want to break it down into manageable pieces. Consider the size and weight of the sections you’ll be able to handle.
Look again for any hidden tension or compression. Mark out your planned cut lines if needed. Think about where you will stand and where the log pieces might roll or fall after being cut.
2. Make the First Cut (Relief Cut or Pilot Cut)
Based on your assessment, make your first cut. If there’s significant tension on top, you’ll likely start with a shallow cut from the top side (overbuck), going in about one-third of the way. If the log is resting on something, creating compression on the bottom, you might start with a shallow cut from the bottom (underbuck).
3. Make the Second Cut (Main Cut)
Now, make the main cut. If you started with an overbuck cut, you will now cut from the bottom to meet the first cut. If you started with an underbuck cut, you will cut from the top.
Always be aware of the saw chain and the wood. If the saw starts to bind, stop immediately and use a wedge. This two-cut method is key to avoiding pinch points.
4. Manage the Cut Sections
Once a section is cut, it might shift or roll. Be ready for this. If it’s a large piece, you might need to secure it before fully cutting it free.
Use wedges to keep the cut open if necessary. After the cut is complete, carefully move away from the section. Let it settle before attempting to move it further.
Scenario: Cutting a Long, Straight Log on the Ground
Suppose you have a long, straight log lying flat on the ground. This log is mostly under compression along its entire length where it touches the earth. It might also have some slight tension on the very top surface if it’s slightly lifted by bumps in the ground.
- Assess: The main issue here is compression on the bottom. The top has minimal tension.
- Plan: You want to cut it into manageable lengths, say 4-foot sections.
- First Cut: Start by cutting from the top, about one-third of the way through each 4-foot section. This is the overbuck cut.
- Second Cut: Then, cut from the bottom to complete each section. Be prepared for the wood to try and squeeze the saw. You might need to insert a wedge as you cut the bottom.
- Remove Sections: Once a section is cut free, carefully roll it away from the main log.
- Planning is Crucial: Always decide your cuts before you start the saw.
- Two-Step Cutting: Use a combination of top and bottom cuts to avoid pinching.
- Wedges are Your Friend: Keep wedges handy to hold cuts open in compressed wood.
- Handle Cut Sections Carefully: Be aware that cut pieces can shift or roll.
Chainsaw Maintenance for Fallen Trees
To perform these cutting tasks safely and efficiently, your chainsaw needs to be in top condition. Professionals treat their chainsaws like essential tools that require regular care. A well-maintained saw is safer, lasts longer, and performs better, especially when dealing with the tough demands of cutting fallen trees.
Chain Sharpness and Tension
A sharp chain cuts through wood much faster and requires less effort. A dull chain can lead to the saw bouncing, getting stuck, and creating more sawdust than necessary. Professionals check their chain sharpness often, sometimes after every few cuts, and re-sharpen it using a file and guide.
Chain tension is also critical. If it’s too loose, the chain can come off. If it’s too tight, it can put extra strain on the engine and bar.
Proper chain tension means the chain should pull smoothly around the bar but not sag. When you pull the chain down on the underside of the bar, it should spring back up to hug the bar. If it hangs loose, it’s too slack.
If it’s very difficult to move by hand, it’s too tight. A chain that is too loose is a major safety hazard, as it can derail and cause serious injury. A chain that is too tight can damage the bar and the engine.
Bar and Sprocket Health
The guide bar is what the chain runs on, and the sprocket is the gear that drives the chain. Both need to be in good condition. The bar should be cleaned of sawdust and wood debris regularly, and the rails should be kept straight.
If the bar gets worn down unevenly or bent, it can affect the chain’s performance and safety. The sprocket, often located under a cover, needs to be checked for wear. Worn sprockets can cause the chain to skip or not engage properly, leading to inefficient cutting and potential damage.
Fuel and Oil Levels
Chainsaws need the correct mix of fuel and oil for their two-stroke engines. Using the wrong ratio can damage the engine. The bar and chain oil reservoir must also be kept full.
This oil lubricates the chain and bar as they move, preventing overheating and excessive wear. If the bar oil runs out, the chain can become very hot, dull quickly, and even seize up, causing damage to the saw.
Statistic: Chain Sharpness Impact
According to industry reports, using a dull chainsaw chain can increase the fuel consumption by as much as 15% and reduce cutting efficiency by up to 20%. This means more time spent, more fuel used, and a higher risk of kickback because you have to force a dull chain through the wood.
- Sharpness: A sharp chain cuts faster, safer, and with less effort.
- Tension: Proper chain tension prevents derailment and damage.
- Bar Maintenance: Keep the guide bar clean and straight for optimal performance.
- Sprocket Check: Inspect the drive sprocket for wear and ensure it engages the chain correctly.
- Lubrication: Always maintain the correct fuel mix and ensure the bar oil reservoir is full.
Frequently Asked Questions
Question: What is the most dangerous part of cutting a fallen tree?
Answer: The most dangerous parts involve unpredictable wood movement due to tension and compression, which can cause the chainsaw to bind or kick back unexpectedly.
Question: Do I need special training to use a chainsaw on fallen trees?
Answer: While basic chainsaw operation can be learned, cutting fallen trees safely, especially large ones, often benefits greatly from hands-on training from experienced professionals.
Question: How can I tell if a log will pinch my chainsaw?
Answer: Look for bends in the log. If the log is sagging, the bottom is compressed and likely to pinch. If it’s bowed upwards, the top is under tension and might pinch.
Question: What should I do if my chainsaw gets stuck in a log?
Answer: Turn off the chainsaw immediately. Do not try to force it. Use wedges to open the cut, then carefully remove the saw.
Never try to pull the saw out while the engine is running.
Question: Are there times when I should NOT cut a fallen tree myself?
Answer: Yes, if the tree is very large, near power lines, leaning precariously, or if you are unsure about the tension in the wood, it’s best to call a professional tree removal service.
Summary
Cutting fallen trees with a chainsaw requires careful planning, the right gear, and smart techniques. Professionals assess the tree’s stress points, understand tension and compression, and use specific cuts to avoid getting their saw stuck. Always prioritize safety, maintain your equipment, and follow a step-by-step process.
With practice and attention to detail, you can approach these tasks with more confidence and skill.
