Picking the right saw chain can feel tricky, especially when you’re just starting out with cutting bigger wood like fallen trees. You want something that’s safe and works well without causing a lot of trouble. This guide breaks down exactly What chain type works best on a chainsaw for cutting fallen trees? in a way that’s easy to get.
We’ll go through the simple steps to help you choose and use the best chain. Get ready to learn what you need to know!
Key Takeaways
- Different chain types are suited for different jobs, and for fallen trees, a more aggressive chain is usually better.
- Chain pitch and gauge are important measurements that affect how the chain cuts and fits your saw.
- Understanding the number of drive links is key to ensuring the chain fits your saw’s bar correctly.
- A low-kickback chain offers safety without sacrificing too much cutting power for general use.
- For faster, tougher jobs on fallen trees, certain professional-grade chains can be excellent choices.
- Proper maintenance keeps your chosen chain cutting efficiently and safely.
Choosing Your Chainsaw Chain for Fallen Trees
When you’re faced with a fallen tree, the right chainsaw chain makes all the difference. It’s not just about having a sharp chain; it’s about having a chain that’s designed for the job. Fallen trees often mean dealing with large diameters, tough wood, and the possibility of the tree shifting.
For beginners, the question of What chain type works best on a chainsaw for cutting fallen trees? pops up because there are many options, and picking the wrong one can lead to slow cutting, chain damage, or even dangerous kickback. This section will help you understand the basic types of chains and why some are better suited for tackling bigger wood.
Understanding Chain Basics: Pitch and Gauge
Before you can decide on a chain type, you need to know about two key measurements: pitch and gauge. These are like the size and width of the chain’s cutting teeth and how they fit together. Getting these right ensures your chain works with your saw’s bar and chain cover.
This is super important for safe and effective cutting.
The pitch of a chain is the distance between the drive links. You measure it from the center of one rivet to the center of the next rivet, then divide by two. Common pitches are 3/8 inch, .325 inch, and 1/4 inch.
A larger pitch usually means bigger, more aggressive cutting teeth. This is often good for bigger jobs like cutting through thick fallen trees.
The gauge of a chain refers to the thickness of the drive links. This is the part of the chain that sits in the groove of your saw’s bar. Common gauges are .050 inch and .063 inch.
The gauge must match the groove in your saw’s bar. Using the wrong gauge can cause the chain to bind, wear out the bar quickly, or even fall off.
Why Pitch and Gauge Matter for Fallen Trees
For cutting fallen trees, you generally want a chain that cuts fast and efficiently. This often means a larger pitch, like 3/8 inch. Larger pitch chains have larger cutters that can remove more wood with each pass.
This is great for the thick logs you get from fallen trees. However, larger pitch chains are typically found on more powerful chainsaws, often used by professionals.
If you have a smaller homeowner-grade saw, you might be limited to smaller pitches like .325 inch. Even with a .325 inch pitch, you can still find aggressive chains that work well. The gauge is less about cutting power and more about fit.
Always check your saw’s manual or the information on your current bar to find the correct gauge.
Many beginners get confused because they see different numbers and sizes. They wonder if a bigger number is always better. For pitch, a bigger number (like 3/8″) generally means more aggressive cutting.
For gauge, it’s about matching your saw, not necessarily about choosing a “bigger” or “smaller” one for cutting power.
Types of Chains: Safety vs. Aggression
Chainsaw chains come in different designs, mainly differing in how aggressive their cutting action is and how they handle kickback. Kickback is a sudden, violent upward and backward motion of the chainsaw that can happen when the tip of the guide bar hits an object or when the wood closes in and pinches the saw chain in the cut. For beginners, safety is a big deal, but for cutting fallen trees, you also need some cutting power.
There are generally two main categories to consider: low-kickback chains and professional or full-chisel chains. Low-kickback chains are designed with a guard bumper or a different cutting tooth shape to reduce the severity of kickback. These are great for general use and for people who are still getting comfortable with a chainsaw.
They offer a good balance of safety and cutting performance.
Professional or full-chisel chains are more aggressive. They have sharp, square-cornered cutters that chew through wood very quickly. These chains are excellent for experienced users who need maximum cutting speed, especially when dealing with large volumes of wood like fallen trees.
However, they also have a higher risk of kickback if not used with care.
The Beginner’s Choice: Low-Kickback Chains
For most beginners, a low-kickback chain is the way to go, even for cutting fallen trees. These chains are designed to be safer to use. They have features that help reduce the chance of dangerous kickback, which is especially important when you’re still learning how to handle the saw and judge how the wood will react.
These chains still cut wood effectively. They might not be the absolute fastest for a professional, but they provide a much safer experience. Think of them as a great starting point.
You can still tackle many jobs, including cutting up smaller fallen branches or sections of larger trees, with confidence.
- Safety First: Low-kickback chains have features that make them less likely to cause dangerous kickback. This is crucial for new users.
- Good Performance: While not the fastest, they still cut wood well and can handle most tasks.
- Easier to Learn With: The reduced risk of kickback allows beginners to focus on proper cutting technique.
When to Consider Professional Chains
If you find yourself regularly cutting large fallen trees and need to work faster, a professional chain might be worth considering. These chains, often called full-chisel, have a more aggressive design. Their square-shaped cutters slice through wood very efficiently.
This means you can get through thick logs quicker.
However, these chains demand more skill and caution. They are more prone to kickback if the tip hits something or if the wood pinches the chain. If you’re an experienced user, or if you’re working with a powerful saw designed for demanding jobs, these chains can be very effective for cutting fallen trees.
- Faster Cutting: Professional chains remove wood quickly, saving time on large jobs.
- Requires Skill: They demand careful handling and awareness of kickback risks.
- Best for Experienced Users: If you’re new, master basic chains first.
Drive Links: The Key to Fit
One of the most common mistakes beginners make is choosing a chain that doesn’t actually fit their chainsaw. This usually comes down to the drive links. The drive links are the parts of the chain that sit inside the groove of your saw’s bar and are powered by the drive sprocket.
The number of these links is specific to your saw and bar combination.
Every chainsaw bar is designed to work with a chain that has a certain number of drive links. If you have too few, the chain won’t loop around the bar and sprocket properly. If you have too many, it won’t tension correctly, or it might not fit at all.
It’s a simple number, but it’s absolutely vital for the chain to function.
You can usually find the correct number of drive links printed on your guide bar itself, often near the base where it attaches to the saw. It might be a number like “60 DL” or “72 DL”. If you can’t find it on the bar, check your chainsaw’s owner’s manual.
It will clearly state the required number of drive links for different bar lengths.
How to Find the Right Number of Drive Links
Finding the correct number of drive links is straightforward. First, look closely at your chainsaw’s guide bar. Many bars have the specifications stamped into the metal, usually at the base.
You might see the pitch and gauge numbers there, and often, the number of drive links too.
If the number isn’t visible on the bar, your chainsaw’s user manual is the next best place to check. The manual provides all the technical details for your specific saw model, including the recommended chain specifications for different bar lengths. Always use the information provided by the manufacturer to ensure a proper fit.
Another way is to count the drive links on your current chain. Remove the chain from your saw and carefully count each link that sits inside the bar groove. This is a reliable method if your current chain fits correctly.
Just be sure to count them accurately. A single missed link can lead to a chain that doesn’t fit.
Example: Counting Drive Links
Let’s say you have a 20-inch guide bar. You want to find out how many drive links you need. You could:
- Look at the guide bar for stamped numbers. You might see “3/8 .050 72DL”. This tells you the pitch (3/8″), gauge (.050″), and that you need a chain with 72 drive links.
- If no numbers are on the bar, check your chainsaw’s manual for your 20-inch bar. It will specify the number of drive links required.
- Alternatively, if your old chain fits well, you can lay it out flat and count the drive links that would sit in the bar groove. If you count 72, then you know you need a 72-drive-link chain.
It’s important to remember that bars of the same length can sometimes require different numbers of drive links depending on the saw manufacturer. So, always confirm with your saw’s manual or the bar itself.
Chain Maintenance: Keeping it Sharp and Safe
No matter which chain type you choose for cutting fallen trees, keeping it well-maintained is crucial. A sharp chain cuts faster, uses less power, and is much safer than a dull one. Dull chains require you to push harder, increasing the risk of kickback.
Regular sharpening and proper tensioning are key.
Sharpening involves using a round file of the correct size for your chain’s pitch. You file the cutters at a specific angle to restore their sharp edge. This should be done often, ideally every time you refuel the saw.
Maintaining the correct chain tension is also vital. A chain that’s too loose can derail, and one that’s too tight can cause excessive wear.
Always follow the sharpening angles recommended by your chain manufacturer. Most chains have markings on the cutters to help guide you. Proper maintenance not only makes cutting easier but also prolongs the life of your chain and your chainsaw.
Sharpening Your Chain
Sharpening is a skill that every chainsaw user should learn. You’ll need a good file, a file guide, and a flat file for setting the depth gauges. The round file restores the cutting edge of the teeth.
To sharpen, place the file in the guide and place it on a cutter. File at the angle recommended for your chain (usually 25-35 degrees). Stroke the file across the cutter from back to front.
Do this for every tooth on one side, then switch to the other side of the chain and repeat.
The depth gauges, which are the small ramps in front of the cutters, control how deep the cutter bites into the wood. If they are too high, the chain won’t cut well. If they are too low, the chain can be too aggressive and increase the risk of kickback.
You’ll need to use a flat file to lower the depth gauges so they are just slightly above the cutting tooth.
Tensioning Your Chain
Getting the chain tension right is essential for safe and efficient operation. A chain that is too loose can jump off the bar. This is dangerous and can damage both the chain and the bar.
A chain that is too tight will cause extra wear on the bar, the engine, and the chain itself.
Most modern chainsaws have a tool-less tensioning system. This usually involves a knob or screw on the side of the saw. To tension, loosen the bar nuts slightly, then turn the tensioning knob until the chain is snug against the bar.
You should be able to pull the chain around the bar by hand. It should feel firm but move freely.
After you’ve tensioned it, retighten the bar nuts firmly. Check the tension again by pulling the chain. A good rule of thumb is that the chain should be tight enough that it doesn’t sag away from the underside of the bar, but loose enough that you can still pull it around by hand.
Considering Chain Features for Fallen Trees
When you’re dealing with fallen trees, the type of wood, the size of the tree, and the conditions you’re working in all play a role in what chain works best. For instance, hardwood is tougher than softwood and requires a chain that can power through it. Wet wood can also be more challenging than dry wood.
Understanding these factors helps you make a better choice.
Many people ask What chain type works best on a chainsaw for cutting fallen trees? because they want to cut efficiently and safely. If you’re cutting through a large, hardwood fallen tree, you need a chain that is durable and can handle the resistance. This might mean a chain with larger cutters or one made from harder steel.
For those who cut frequently, a professional-grade chain might offer the speed and performance needed. However, safety features like reduced kickback are still important, especially for less experienced users or when working in uneven terrain where the saw might be more prone to hitting the ground.
Durability and Material
The material your chainsaw chain is made from significantly impacts its durability and how long it stays sharp. Chains are typically made of hardened steel, but the quality and type of steel can vary. Some chains use special alloys or coatings to increase their lifespan and resistance to wear.
For cutting fallen trees, which can be a demanding task, a durable chain is highly beneficial. It means you won’t have to sharpen or
Consider chains that are designed for professional use. These often use higher-grade steel and more advanced manufacturing techniques to ensure they can withstand heavy use in tough conditions. While these might be more expensive upfront, their longer lifespan can make them more cost-effective in the long run, especially when dealing with large fallen trees.
Steel Quality and Coatings
The quality of the steel is paramount. High-carbon steel is standard, but the way it’s heat-treated makes a big difference in hardness and toughness. A chain that is too hard can be brittle and prone to breaking.
A chain that is too soft will dull very quickly.
Many premium chains feature chrome plating on the cutting edges. This hard chrome layer significantly increases the chain’s resistance to wear and abrasion. It helps the chain stay sharp for longer periods, which is a major advantage when cutting through dense, hard wood.
This makes the chain ideal for tackling the challenges presented by fallen trees.
Some specialized chains also incorporate other advanced materials or treatments, like tungsten carbide coatings. These are often found on chains designed for extreme cutting conditions, like cutting through dirt-infused wood or very hard materials. For most typical fallen tree cutting, however, high-quality steel with chrome plating is an excellent choice.
When to Choose a More Aggressive Chain
If your primary goal is speed and efficiency when cutting fallen trees, especially large ones, a more aggressive chain is often the best choice. Aggressive chains have sharper, more angular cutters that can remove wood more quickly. This means you can get through a log faster.
These chains are often referred to as “full chisel” or “semi-chisel.” Full chisel chains have sharp, square corners on their cutters, making them very fast. Semi-chisel chains have slightly rounded corners, offering a balance between aggression and durability, making them a good option for general use and moderate wood types.
For beginners, it’s important to remember that more aggressive means higher kickback risk. If you’re not yet comfortable with your saw’s handling, or if you’re working in a situation where the tree might shift unexpectedly, it’s safer to opt for a less aggressive chain, even if it means cutting a bit slower. Always prioritize safety.
Full Chisel vs. Semi Chisel
Full chisel chains have sharp, square-cornered cutters. Imagine a sharp, defined angle. This design allows them to slice through wood very aggressively.
They excel at fast, efficient cutting, making them ideal for professionals and those who cut large amounts of wood regularly, like loggers or arborists dealing with big fallen trees.
Semi chisel chains have cutters with a slightly rounded edge. This rounding makes them a bit less aggressive than full chisel chains, but it also makes them more forgiving and durable. They are less likely to be damaged by dirt or grit, and they generally stay sharper for longer than full chisel chains.
They are a great all-around choice for many users.
For someone asking What chain type works best on a chainsaw for cutting fallen trees? and prioritizing speed, a full chisel chain is often the answer, assuming they have the skill to handle it. If a balance of speed and durability is needed, or if there’s a chance of encountering debris, semi chisel is a strong contender.
Real-Life Example: The Logging Operation
Consider a small logging crew that needs to clear a path after a storm. They encounter several large fallen oak trees. The oaks are dense hardwoods, and time is critical.
They are using powerful 20-inch bar chainsaws.
For this specific scenario, they would typically choose a 3/8 inch pitch, .050 or .058 gauge chain. They would likely opt for a full chisel cutter design. This provides the aggressive cutting needed to power through the thick hardwood quickly.
They would ensure their chains are kept perfectly sharp and tensioned, as any dullness or looseness would significantly slow them down and increase the risk of dangerous kickback in this demanding operation.
Bar Length and Chain Compatibility
It’s essential to match your chain to your chainsaw’s bar length. The bar length determines the maximum size of the trees you can cut efficiently and safely. A longer bar allows you to cut through thicker logs in a single pass.
However, longer bars also require more power from the saw and can increase the risk of kickback.
Chains are designed to work with specific bar lengths. For example, a chain made for a 16-inch bar will not fit or work correctly on a 24-inch bar. The number of drive links, as we discussed, is the primary factor here.
Always consult your saw’s manual to confirm the recommended bar lengths and corresponding chain specifications.
When cutting fallen trees, you’ll often use bars in the 16-inch to 20-inch range for general-purpose saws, and longer bars (20 inches and up) for larger, more powerful saws. The chain specifications (pitch, gauge, and drive links) must precisely match the bar you are using.
Matching Chain to Bar Length
The most critical aspect of matching a chain to a bar is the number of drive links. A bar manufacturer specifies the number of drive links required for each bar length. For instance, a 20-inch bar might require a chain with 72 drive links, while a 16-inch bar might need a chain with 56 drive links.
Here’s a simple chart showing common bar lengths and approximate drive link counts (these can vary slightly by manufacturer):
| Bar Length (inches) | Approximate Drive Links |
|---|---|
| 14 | 52 |
| 16 | 56 |
| 18 | 64 |
| 20 | 72 |
| 24 | 84 |
Always verify these numbers with your specific bar and chainsaw manual. Using a chain with the wrong number of drive links is a common cause of chain problems.
Sample Scenario: Cutting a Large Fallen Pine
Imagine you need to cut a large fallen pine tree that’s about 24 inches in diameter. You have a powerful chainsaw with a 20-inch bar.
- Assess the Saw and Bar: Your 20-inch bar is adequate, but you’ll need to make multiple passes or be very precise.
- Identify Chain Specs: You check your manual and find that for your 20-inch bar, you need a chain with 3/8 inch pitch, .050 inch gauge, and 72 drive links.
- Choose the Chain Type: Since pine is a relatively soft wood and you want to cut efficiently, you opt for a semi-chisel chain. It offers good cutting speed and durability.
- Prepare the Chain: Before you start, ensure the chain is perfectly sharp and properly tensioned.
- Execute the Cut: Carefully make your cuts, paying attention to how the wood is reacting. You might need to reposition the saw for the best angle.
This scenario highlights how the bar length, chain specifications, and chain type all work together for effective cutting of fallen trees.
Putting It All Together: The Best Choice
So, What chain type works best on a chainsaw for cutting fallen trees? The answer isn’t a single chain, but a combination of factors that suit your needs and skill level. For most users, especially beginners or those who aren’t cutting trees daily, a durable, semi-chisel chain with a low-kickback feature is an excellent starting point.
This type of chain offers a good balance. It’s aggressive enough to cut through fallen trees effectively without being overly dangerous. It also tends to be more forgiving of minor mistakes and stays sharp longer than a full chisel chain.
Always ensure the pitch, gauge, and number of drive links precisely match your chainsaw and guide bar.
If you are a seasoned professional and need maximum cutting speed for large, hard-wood fallen trees, a full-chisel chain with a larger pitch might be your preference. But remember, this comes with a higher risk and requires expert handling.
Recommendation for General Users
For the average homeowner or someone who occasionally needs to clear fallen trees, the best chain type is one that prioritizes safety and ease of use without sacrificing too much cutting ability. This means looking for chains that have built-in low-kickback features.
A good recommendation would be a 3/8 inch pitch, .050 or .058 gauge chain. Look for a semi-chisel cutter design. This combination provides efficient cutting for most types of wood you’ll encounter in fallen trees, from pine to oak, and is less prone to dangerous kickback than a full-chisel chain.
The key is to ensure the number of drive links matches your specific guide bar. Always check your chainsaw’s manual or the markings on your bar to get the correct specifications. A correctly fitting and sharp semi-chisel chain will make cutting fallen trees a manageable task.
Why Semi-Chisel is Often Ideal
Semi-chisel chains are often the sweet spot for many chainsaw users, especially those cutting fallen trees. Here’s why:
- Durability: The rounded edges resist wear and damage from minor dirt or grit better than the sharp corners of full-chisel chains. This means they often last longer between sharpenings.
- Safety: While still aggressive enough for good cutting, they are generally less prone to severe kickback compared to full chisel chains, making them safer for less experienced users.
- Versatility: They perform well on a variety of wood types, from softwoods to moderately hard woods.
- Ease of Maintenance: They are still relatively easy to sharpen correctly.
When asking What chain type works best on a chainsaw for cutting fallen trees?, a semi-chisel chain often emerges as the practical, safe, and effective answer for a broad range of users and situations.
When to Opt for Professional Chains
Professional chains are designed for heavy-duty use and maximum efficiency. If you are a professional logger, arborist, or someone who uses a chainsaw constantly for demanding work, these chains are usually the preferred choice. They are typically characterized by a more aggressive cutter design and higher quality materials.
A common professional setup involves a 3/8 inch pitch, .063 inch gauge chain. These chains often feature full-chisel cutters for the fastest possible cutting speed. They are made from very high-strength steel and sometimes have advanced coatings for extended sharpness and durability.
However, they demand a higher level of skill and constant vigilance against kickback.
If your fallen trees are consistently large and made of dense hardwoods, and you need to get the job done quickly and efficiently, a professional chain is likely what you need. But remember, this choice is best made by those with significant chainsaw experience.
Features of High-Performance Chains
Professional chains often boast features that set them apart:
- Aggressive Cutters: Full-chisel teeth are standard, designed for maximum wood removal with each pass.
- Advanced Steel Alloys: These chains use superior steel that is heat-treated for optimal hardness and toughness, meaning they stay sharp longer and are more resistant to breakage.
- Lubrication Channels: Some high-performance chains have small channels within the drive links to help distribute bar oil more effectively, ensuring better lubrication of the chain and bar.
- Reduced Vibration: While not solely a chain feature, the design of professional chains can contribute to smoother operation with less vibration, reducing user fatigue.
These features contribute to faster, more efficient cutting, which is a significant advantage when dealing with large fallen trees where time and effort are important factors.
Considerations for Beginners
Even with professional chains, safety remains paramount. If you are a beginner, it is highly recommended to start with a low-kickback, semi-chisel chain. As you gain experience and confidence with your chainsaw, you can then explore more aggressive chain types.
Understanding What chain type works best on a chainsaw for cutting fallen trees? involves knowing your own skill level and the demands of the task. There’s no shame in choosing a safer, slightly slower option. It’s better to cut a little slower and finish the job safely than to risk injury with a chain you can’t handle.
Frequently Asked Questions
Question: What is the most important measurement for a chainsaw chain?
Answer: The pitch, gauge, and number of drive links are all critical for a chain to fit and work correctly with your saw and bar.
Question: Can I use a chain with a different pitch than what my saw recommends?
Answer: No, you should never use a chain with a different pitch. It won’t fit the drive sprocket properly and can cause serious damage or be very dangerous.
Question: How often should I sharpen my chainsaw chain?
Answer: You should sharpen your chainsaw chain frequently, ideally every time you refuel the saw, or whenever you notice it cutting slower or requiring more effort.
Question: What is kickback and how can I avoid it?
Answer: Kickback is a sudden, violent upward and backward movement of the chainsaw. You can avoid it by being aware of the chain’s tip, avoiding cutting with it, and keeping your chain sharp and properly tensioned.
Question: Is a longer bar always better for cutting fallen trees?
Answer: Not necessarily. A longer bar allows for deeper cuts but requires a more powerful saw and increases kickback risk. The best bar length depends on the size of the trees and the power of your chainsaw.
Summary
Choosing the right chainsaw chain for cutting fallen trees involves balancing cutting power with safety. For most users, a durable, low-kickback, semi-chisel chain that precisely matches your saw’s bar specifications is the ideal choice. It ensures efficient cutting and a safer experience as you work through timber.
