How To Transition A Lawn From Cool Season To Warm Season Grass

Last Updated on February 22, 2026 by D. Ruddy

Switching your lawn from grass that likes it cool to grass that thrives when it’s hot can seem tricky, especially if you’re new to lawn care. You might wonder about the best time to start, or how to get rid of the old grass. It’s totally doable!

This guide breaks down How to transition a lawn from cool season to warm season grass step by step. Get ready for a greener yard with our simple plan.

Key Takeaways

• You’ll learn the best times of year to start your lawn transition.
• Discover how to prepare your soil for new grass types.
• Understand different methods for removing old cool-season grass.
• Find out how to properly plant and establish warm-season grasses.
• Get tips for keeping your new warm-season lawn healthy.

When to Make the Switch: Timing is Key

Starting the process of changing your lawn is all about picking the right moment. The goal is to help the new grass get a strong start while the old grass is fading. This usually means waiting for the weather to be just right.

We’ll look at the ideal seasons and why they matter for success.

Choosing the Right Season for Transition

The timing for switching your lawn is super important. Cool-season grasses, like fescues and ryegrass, grow best when temperatures are mild, usually in spring and fall. Warm-season grasses, such as Bermuda and Zoysia, love the heat and grow actively during the hot summer months.

To successfully transition, you need to work with these natural growth patterns. This means you won’t be planting warm-season grass in the dead of winter or the peak of summer heat. We’re aiming for a sweet spot where the old grass is slowing down and the new grass can take over easily.

For most areas that experience distinct seasons, the ideal time to begin the transition is in late spring or early summer. This is when your warm-season grass seeds or sod will have the best chance to germinate and establish roots before the cooler weather arrives. It also gives the cool-season grass a chance to weaken in the heat, making it easier to remove or outcompete.

Why Late Spring/Early Summer is Best

Late spring and early summer offer the perfect climate for warm-season grasses to begin their growth cycle. The soil temperatures are warming up, encouraging germination for seeds and rapid establishment for sod. This period also marks the beginning of dormancy or reduced growth for cool-season grasses as the heat intensifies.

This natural weakening of the existing turf makes the transition process smoother.

• Ideal Temperature Range: Warm-season grasses typically germinate and grow best when soil temperatures are consistently between 70°F and 85°F (21°C to 29°C). This range is usually found in late spring and throughout summer in many regions.

  This temperature is vital because it directly impacts how quickly grass seeds sprout and how well young grass plants develop. If the soil is too cold, seeds might not sprout at all, or they could rot before they have a chance to grow. Similarly, young plants need warmth to build strong root systems.

  A good root system is essential for the grass to take in water and nutrients and to withstand stress from heat and drought later on.

• Reduced Competition: As temperatures climb, cool-season grasses naturally slow down their growth. They can even go dormant and turn brown during the hottest parts of summer. This makes them less competitive against the vigorous growth of newly planted warm-season grasses.

  When the existing grass isn’t growing as much, it means there’s less competition for sunlight, water, and nutrients. This gives your new warm-season grass seedlings or sod a much better chance to establish themselves without being crowded out. It’s like clearing the field so the new players can run and grow freely.

  Without this, the established cool-season grass might simply choke out the new plants.

• Sufficient Growing Season: Starting in late spring or early summer ensures that your new warm-season grass has a long, growing season ahead of it. This extended period of warmth allows the grass to develop a deep and extensive root system before winter arrives.

  A deep root system is incredibly important for a healthy lawn. It allows the grass to find water deep in the soil, making it more resistant to drought. It also helps the grass anchor itself firmly, which is good for overall resilience.

  By giving the warm-season grass a full season to grow strong roots, you set it up for success in the following years. It builds a solid foundation that will help it survive and thrive.

What to Avoid and Why

Planting warm-season grass too early, like in early spring when it’s still cool, can be a mistake. The soil might not be warm enough, and the cool-season grass will still be actively growing and will likely outcompete the new grass. Similarly, trying to plant during extreme summer heatwaves, even if it’s the right season, can stress the new grass and lead to poor germination or wilting.

Fall is generally not the best time to start a warm-season grass transition for those in climates with cold winters. While it’s a great time for cool-season grasses, warm-season grasses planted in the fall won’t have enough time to establish a strong root system before the cold weather hits. They are more likely to be damaged or killed by frost and freezes.

The goal is to have the new grass well-rooted and established before winter dormancy sets in.

Preparing Your Lawn for the Change

Before you can plant new grass, you need to get your yard ready. This involves clearing out the old stuff and making sure the ground is in good shape. Think of it like preparing a garden bed before planting new flowers.

We’ll go over how to remove the old grass and fix up the soil.

Methods for Removing Cool-Season Grass

Getting rid of the old cool-season grass is a crucial step. You have a few options, and the best one for you might depend on how quickly you want the new grass and your tolerance for a temporary bare patch. Each method has its pros and cons regarding effort, cost, and speed.

• Chemical Killers (Herbicides): This is often the fastest way to kill existing grass. You’ll use a non-selective herbicide that kills everything it touches. It’s important to follow the product instructions carefully to avoid harming yourself or the environment.

  Using herbicides means you can clear a large area relatively quickly. However, it requires careful application. You need to make sure you cover all the areas where the cool-season grass is growing.

  After application, you typically have to wait a week or two for the grass to completely die before you can start preparing the soil for new planting. This waiting period ensures that no live grass roots are left to regrow. Always wear protective gear like gloves and long sleeves when applying any chemicals.

• Smothering (Solarization or Tarping): This method involves covering the lawn with clear plastic (for solarization) or opaque tarps for several weeks. The heat and lack of light kill the grass and weeds underneath.

  Smothering takes longer than herbicides but is a more natural approach. Solarization uses the sun’s heat trapped under clear plastic to “cook” the grass and any weed seeds in the top layer of soil. Opaque tarps work by blocking out all light, preventing photosynthesis.

  Both methods require you to keep the covering in place for at least 4-6 weeks, sometimes longer, depending on the weather. It’s a slow but effective way to clear the area without chemicals. You’ll notice the grass turning brown and dying over time.

• Physical Removal (Sod Cutter or Tilling): You can rent a sod cutter to slice under the existing grass and remove it in strips. Alternatively, you can till the area repeatedly to break down the grass and incorporate it into the soil, though this is more labor-intensive.

  Using a sod cutter is a very direct way to remove your existing lawn. You essentially peel off the top layer of grass and soil. The removed sod can sometimes be composted or repurposed elsewhere.

  Tilling involves using a machine to churn up the soil. While it breaks down the grass, it can also bring dormant weed seeds to the surface, which you’ll then need to manage. This method requires a good amount of physical effort and suitable equipment.

Soil Testing and Improvement

Once the old grass is gone, it’s time to look at your soil. A soil test will tell you what nutrients your soil is lacking and its pH level. Most warm-season grasses prefer a slightly acidic to neutral pH, typically between 6.0 and 7.0.

If your soil is too acidic or too alkaline, your new grass won’t be able to absorb nutrients properly, no matter how much you add.

Based on your soil test results, you can amend the soil. This might involve adding lime to raise the pH if it’s too acidic, or sulfur to lower it if it’s too alkaline. You’ll also want to add organic matter, like compost, to improve soil structure, drainage, and fertility.

Healthy soil is the foundation for a healthy lawn.

Soil pH Explained: Soil pH is a measure of how acidic or alkaline your soil is. It’s measured on a scale from 0 to 14, with 7 being neutral. Below 7 is acidic, and above 7 is alkaline.

Different plants thrive at different pH levels. For warm-season grasses, a pH between 6.0 and 7.0 is generally ideal. If your pH is too far off, even if you add fertilizer, the grass might not be able to use it.

For example, if your soil is too acidic, nutrients like phosphorus might become unavailable to the plant.

Importance of Organic Matter: Adding organic matter, such as compost or aged manure, is like giving your soil a superfood boost. Organic matter improves the soil’s ability to hold water and nutrients, which is especially important for warm-season grasses that can be prone to drought. It also helps with drainage in clay soils and aeration in compacted soils.

This creates a better environment for grass roots to grow and establish.

Leveling and Raking

After amending the soil, you’ll want to rake the area smooth. Remove any large rocks, roots, or debris that you find. The goal is to create a nice, even surface for planting.

If there are low spots where water might collect, you can fill them in with a bit of topsoil. This helps ensure uniform watering and growth for your new grass.

Establishing Your Warm-Season Grass

Now comes the exciting part: putting in your new warm-season grass! You have a couple of main choices here: planting seeds or laying sod. Each has its advantages, and the choice often depends on your budget and how quickly you want to see a fully grown lawn.

Seeding vs. Sodding

Planting seeds is usually the most budget-friendly option. You’ll broadcast the seeds over the prepared soil and then lightly cover them. This method requires patience, as it can take several weeks for the seeds to germinate and establish a thick turf.

You’ll also need to be diligent with watering during this period.

Sod, on the other hand, is pre-grown grass that comes in rolls or squares. Laying sod gives you an instant lawn. It’s more expensive upfront but provides immediate results.

Sod requires very careful watering and maintenance immediately after installation to ensure the grass roots knit into the soil below.

Choosing the Right Warm-Season Grass Type

Different warm-season grasses are suited for various climates and conditions. Some of the most popular include:

• Bermuda Grass: This is a very popular, aggressive, and fast-growing grass that thrives in hot climates. It has a fine texture and is very durable, making it great for high-traffic areas. It goes dormant and turns brown in the winter.

  Bermuda grass is known for its ability to spread rapidly through both rhizomes (underground stems) and stolons (above-ground stems). This spreading nature allows it to quickly fill in bare spots and create a dense turf. However, it can also be considered a weed in garden beds because of its vigorous growth.

  It requires full sun to perform its best.

• Zoysia Grass: Zoysia is a slower-growing but very dense and attractive grass. It’s known for its excellent drought tolerance once established and can handle both sun and moderate shade. It also goes dormant in the winter.

  Zoysia forms a thick, rich green carpet that is highly resistant to weeds and wear. Its slower growth means it requires less mowing than Bermuda grass. However, it can take several years to fully establish from seed.

  Zoysia is a great choice for homeowners who want a beautiful, low-maintenance lawn that can withstand a good amount of foot traffic.

• Centipede Grass: This grass is well-suited for sandy soils and has lower fertility requirements than many other warm-season grasses. It has a fine texture and a medium-green color. It tolerates shade better than Bermuda but prefers full sun.

  Centipede grass is often called the “lazy man’s grass” because it doesn’t need a lot of mowing or fertilization. It grows more upright and less aggressively than Bermuda. While it’s relatively drought-tolerant, it can struggle in extreme heat.

  It’s a good option for those looking for a low-maintenance lawn in the right climate, particularly in the Southeastern United States.

When selecting your grass, consider your local climate, the amount of sunlight your yard receives, and how you use your lawn. Your local extension office can be a great resource for recommending the best varieties for your specific region.

Planting Seeds: A Step-by-Step Guide

If you choose to seed your lawn, follow these steps for best results:

1. Spread the Seed: Use a broadcast spreader for even distribution. Follow the recommended seeding rate for your chosen grass type. It’s often better to err on the side of slightly more seed than not enough, but don’t over-seed, as this can lead to weak, crowded seedlings.

   A spreader ensures that the seeds are scattered uniformly across the entire lawn area. If you try to do it by hand, you’re likely to get clumps in some spots and thin coverage in others. Most seed bags will have instructions on how to calibrate your spreader for that particular seed, so pay close attention to those details.

2. Lightly Rake or Roll: Gently rake the seeded area to lightly cover the seeds with about 1/4 inch of soil. Alternatively, use a lawn roller to press the seeds into the soil. This ensures good seed-to-soil contact, which is vital for germination.

   Seed-to-soil contact means the seed is touching the soil directly, allowing it to absorb moisture. If seeds are just sitting on top of the soil, they might dry out before they can sprout, or they could be washed away by rain or blown by the wind. A light raking or rolling helps secure them in place and gives them the best chance to start growing.

3. Water Consistently: Keep the seedbed consistently moist, but not waterlogged. This often means light watering multiple times a day, especially in warm weather. The goal is to keep the top layer of soil damp so the seeds can germinate.

   Germination is the process where the seed sprouts. For this to happen, the seed needs a constant supply of moisture. If the soil dries out, the tiny seedling can die before it even gets a chance to establish roots.

   Be careful not to overwater, as this can wash the seeds away or promote fungal diseases.

4. Mow Carefully: Once the grass reaches about 1.5 to 2 inches tall, you can start mowing. Set your mower to a higher setting than you normally would and ensure the mower blades are sharp. Avoid cutting off more than one-third of the grass blade at a time.

   The first mow is important for encouraging the grass to thicken up. By cutting the very tip of the grass blade, you encourage it to branch out. This helps create a denser turf.

   Using a higher setting also means you’re not stressing the young grass too much. Sharp blades make a clean cut, which is healthier for the grass than a torn cut.

Laying Sod: An Instant Lawn

If you’re using sod, the process is a bit different:

1. Prepare the Soil: Ensure your soil is well-prepared, loosened, and lightly moist. Grade it smoothly to ensure even coverage.

   This step is the same as for seeding. The sod needs a good bed to root into. If the soil is compacted or uneven, the sod will have trouble establishing a strong connection, and you might end up with an uneven lawn.

   A slightly moist surface helps the sod settle in right away.

2. Lay the Sod: Begin laying sod along the longest, straightest edge of your prepared area, like a sidewalk or driveway. Fit the pieces tightly together, without overlapping or leaving gaps. Stagger the seams like you would lay bricks.

   Laying sod tightly prevents air pockets from forming between the sod and the soil. It also stops weeds from growing up through the gaps. Staggering the seams makes the lawn look more natural and helps the sod pieces bond together as one continuous mat of grass.

3. Water Immediately and Deeply: After laying a section of sod, water it thoroughly. The goal is to moisten the soil beneath the sod. Continue watering daily for the first week or two, ensuring the sod stays moist and the roots begin to grow into the underlying soil.

   This is the most critical step for sod. The sod you purchased has been cut from its original field, and its root system is not yet established in its new home. Immediate and deep watering helps to rehydrate the sod and encourages the roots to seek out moisture in the soil below.

   Without this, the sod can dry out and die.

4. Walk on it Sparingly: Initially, avoid walking on the new sod as much as possible until the roots have a chance to establish. If you must walk on it, try to do so during the first few days to press down any loose areas, but then give it a break.

   Heavy foot traffic on new sod can compact the soil and damage the delicate new roots that are trying to form. It’s best to let the grass settle in undisturbed for at least two to three weeks, or until you can no longer lift the sod pieces easily.

Maintaining Your New Warm-Season Lawn

Once your warm-season grass has successfully transitioned, it needs proper care to thrive. This includes regular watering, mowing at the right height, and feeding it with the correct nutrients. Because warm-season grasses have different needs than cool-season grasses, your maintenance routine will adjust.

Watering Needs

Warm-season grasses are known for their drought tolerance once established, but they still need water, especially during dry spells. The key is to water deeply and less frequently. This encourages the grass to grow deep roots, making it more resilient to drought.

Watering deeply means applying enough water to soak the soil down to a depth of 4-6 inches. How often you need to water will depend on your climate, soil type, and rainfall. A good rule of thumb is to water when the grass starts to look a little dull or when footprints remain visible on the lawn for an extended period.

Deep Watering Explained: Deep watering means giving your lawn a good, long drink instead of a quick sprinkle. A quick sprinkle only wets the top inch of soil, which encourages shallow root growth. Shallow roots make the grass more susceptible to drought and heat stress.

When you water deeply, the water penetrates further into the soil, prompting the grass roots to grow deeper in search of moisture.

• How to Test Soil Moisture: Use a screwdriver or a soil probe. If you can easily push it into the ground to a depth of 4-6 inches, the soil is likely moist enough. If it’s difficult to push in, or if the soil feels dry at that depth, it’s time to water.

  This simple test is a practical way to avoid overwatering or underwatering. Relying solely on how the grass looks can sometimes be misleading, as grass can show signs of thirst before the soil is completely dry. By checking the soil moisture, you get a more accurate picture of what your lawn actually needs.

• Best Time to Water: The best time to water is in the early morning, between 4 AM and 10 AM. This allows the grass blades to dry off before evening, which helps prevent fungal diseases.

  Watering in the morning is ideal because it minimizes water loss due to evaporation. As the sun gets hotter, more water evaporates from the surface before it can soak into the soil. Also, watering in the evening can leave the grass wet overnight, creating a perfect environment for diseases to thrive.

  Morning watering provides the moisture the grass needs without these drawbacks.

Mowing Techniques

Mowing your warm-season lawn correctly is vital for its health and appearance. These grasses generally prefer to be mowed at a slightly higher height than cool-season grasses. Mowing higher helps shade the soil, which keeps it cooler and reduces weed growth.

For most warm-season grasses like Bermuda, Zoysia, and Centipede, a mowing height of 1 to 2.5 inches is recommended. Always use a sharp mower blade to make clean cuts. Dull blades can tear the grass, making it susceptible to disease and giving it a ragged, brown appearance.

The One-Third Rule: Never remove more than one-third of the grass blade’s height in a single mowing. For example, if your grass is 3 inches tall and you want to cut it to 2 inches, that’s fine. But if it’s 4 inches tall and you want to cut it to 2 inches, that’s too much and can shock the grass.

This rule helps prevent stress and encourages healthy growth.

Fertilizing for Success

Warm-season grasses are heavy feeders, meaning they require regular fertilization to maintain their vibrant green color and lush growth. The best time to fertilize is during their active growing season, which is typically late spring through early fall.

You’ll want to use a fertilizer that is appropriate for warm-season grasses. These often have a higher nitrogen content, which promotes green, leafy growth. Look for a balanced fertilizer (e.g., 10-10-10 or similar ratios) or one specifically formulated for lawns.

Follow the application rates on the fertilizer bag carefully to avoid burning your lawn.

Understanding Fertilizer Numbers: Fertilizer bags display three numbers, like 10-10-10. These represent the percentage by weight of nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K). Nitrogen promotes green, leafy growth.

Phosphorus is good for root development. Potassium helps with overall plant health and stress resistance. For warm-season grasses, nitrogen is often the most important nutrient during their active growing phase.

• Fertilizer Application Schedule: For most warm-season grasses, you’ll want to fertilize 2-4 times during the growing season. The first application can be in late spring, as the grass starts to actively grow. Subsequent applications can be made every 6-8 weeks through the summer and into early fall.

  A consistent feeding schedule ensures that your lawn has access to the nutrients it needs to stay healthy and vigorous. If you fertilize too little, the grass might become thin, discolored, or more susceptible to pests and diseases. If you fertilize too much, you can cause excessive growth that requires more mowing and can even burn the grass.

• Types of Fertilizer: You can choose between quick-release and slow-release fertilizers. Quick-release fertilizers provide nutrients immediately, giving the lawn a fast green-up. Slow-release fertilizers feed the lawn gradually over several weeks or months, providing more consistent nutrition and reducing the risk of burning.

  For most homeowners, slow-release fertilizers are generally a safer and more effective option. They provide a steady supply of nutrients over time, which supports sustained growth without the rapid surge that can lead to problems. They also tend to require fewer applications throughout the year, saving you time and effort.

Weed and Pest Control

Even the healthiest lawn can face challenges from weeds and pests. Regular monitoring is key to catching problems early. Many herbicides and insecticides are available, but it’s important to choose products that are safe for your specific type of warm-season grass.

Preventative measures, like maintaining a dense, healthy lawn through proper watering, mowing, and fertilizing, are the best defense against weeds and pests. A well-maintained lawn is better able to outcompete weeds and resist pest damage. If you do encounter problems, identify the specific weed or pest before applying any treatment to ensure you’re using the most effective solution.

Common Challenges and Solutions

Even with the best planning, you might run into a few issues when transitioning your lawn. Knowing what to expect and having solutions ready can save you a lot of frustration. We’ll cover some common problems and how to fix them.

Dealing with Dormancy

One of the most noticeable characteristics of warm-season grasses is their dormancy in cooler weather. When temperatures drop in the fall and winter, these grasses will naturally turn brown and appear dead. This is a normal survival mechanism, not a sign of death.

The key is to remember that the grass is not dead, just resting. The roots are still alive underground. As temperatures rise again in the spring, the grass will begin to green up and resume its growth.

During dormancy, the lawn will require much less water and no fertilizer.

What is Dormancy?: Dormancy is a period of reduced or no growth in plants, often triggered by cold temperatures, drought, or lack of sunlight. For warm-season grasses, winter dormancy is a protective measure that allows them to survive freezing temperatures. Their green color fades, and they turn brown or straw-colored.

• Fall Transition: As the weather begins to cool in the fall, your warm-season grass will naturally start to slow its growth and eventually go dormant. It’s important not to fertilize or overwater during this period. The grass is conserving energy and preparing for winter.

  This transition period is crucial for the grass to prepare its root system for the colder months. Fertilizing at this stage can stimulate new growth that is vulnerable to frost damage. Watering excessively can lead to root rot if the soil remains cold and wet.

• Spring Greening: With the return of warmer temperatures and longer daylight hours in the spring, your dormant warm-season grass will begin to “wake up.” You’ll start to see green shoots emerging from the brown thatch. This process can take several weeks, depending on your climate.

  The first signs of greening are usually subtle. You might notice patches of green appearing here and there. As the soil warms up and the days get longer, these green patches will expand and eventually cover the entire lawn.

  Be patient during this time, as the grass is gradually coming back to life.

Resistant Weeds

Sometimes, stubborn weeds can persist even after you’ve transitioned to a new grass type. Certain weeds might be more resistant to the herbicides used for cool-season grasses or might have established deep root systems. Identifying the specific weed is the first step to effective control.

For instance, nutsedge is a common weed that can be challenging for homeowners. It’s a sedge, not a true grass, and has a triangular stem and yellow-green leaves. It often thrives in moist soil.

Special herbicides are available that are formulated to target sedges effectively.

Nutsedge Control: If you suspect nutsedge, look for herbicides that list nutsedge or sedges on their label. These products often contain ingredients like halosulfuron or sulfentrazone. Applying these treatments according to the product instructions is key to managing this persistent weed.

Patchy Growth

Patchy growth after seeding or sodding can be frustrating, but it’s usually fixable. It can be caused by uneven soil preparation, inconsistent watering, or poor seed-to-soil contact. If you see bare patches, you can try reseeding those areas or patching them with sod.

Ensure that any reseeding is done with the same type of warm-season grass you are establishing. You’ll need to keep these small patches consistently moist until they fill in. For sod patches, make sure the soil underneath is well-prepared and the sod is pressed firmly into place, then watered thoroughly.

Comparing Grass Types for Your Region

Understanding the differences between cool-season and warm-season grasses can help you make informed decisions for your lawn. Here’s a basic comparison.

Feature	Cool-Season Grasses (e.g., Fescue, Ryegrass)	Warm-Season Grasses (e.g., Bermuda, Zoysia)
Best Growing Temperatures	60-75°F (15-24°C)	80-95°F (27-35°C)
Peak Growth Season	Spring and Fall	Summer
Winter Appearance	Remain Green (in milder climates)	Go Dormant (turn brown)
Drought Tolerance	Moderate	High (once established)
Heat Tolerance	Low	High
Shade Tolerance	Varies (some tolerate shade well)	Varies (most prefer full sun)
Spreading Habit	Varies (some spread, some clump)	Aggressive spreaders (rhizomes/stolons)

As you can see, these grass types have very different preferences and behaviors. This is why timing your transition is so critical. For example, if you live in a region with very hot summers and mild winters, warm-season grasses will generally perform much better and be easier to maintain than cool-season grasses.

Frequently Asked Questions

Question: How long does it take to transition a lawn from cool-season to warm-season grass?

Answer: The transition process can take anywhere from a few weeks to several months, depending on the method you use. Killing off the old grass and preparing the soil might take 2-4 weeks. Planting new seeds and waiting for them to establish can take 4-8 weeks.

If you use sod, you get an instant lawn, but it still needs about 2-3 weeks to root properly.

Question: Can I just overseed my cool-season lawn with warm-season grass?

Answer: No, you generally cannot successfully overseed a cool-season lawn with warm-season grass. Warm-season grasses thrive in heat, while cool-season grasses do best in cooler temperatures. When it gets hot, the cool-season grass will dominate, and the warm-season grass won’t be able to establish itself.

You need to remove the cool-season grass first.

Question: Will my warm-season lawn be brown in the winter?

Answer: Yes, most warm-season grasses go dormant and turn brown during the cooler months of fall and winter. This is a natural process, and the grass will return to its green color in the spring when temperatures warm up again.

Question: Is it hard to maintain a warm-season lawn?

Answer: Once established, many warm-season grasses are quite low-maintenance. They are often more drought-tolerant and require less frequent mowing than cool-season grasses. However, they do need proper fertilization during their active growing season and will require winter dormancy care.

Question: What if I have a mix of grass types in my lawn?

Answer: If you have a mixed lawn, you’ll need to identify which type is dominant and choose your transition strategy based on that. If cool-season grass is dominant, you’ll likely need to use a method to kill it off before introducing warm-season grass. If you have some warm-season grass already, the hotter months will naturally favor its growth and help it spread.

Final Thoughts

Successfully changing your lawn from cool-season to warm-season grass involves careful planning, especially in timing and preparation. By understanding the growth cycles of each grass type and following a step-by-step approach, you can achieve a beautiful, thriving warm-season lawn. Focus on preparing your soil well and watering correctly, and your new grass will establish beautifully.